It is so difficult doing this especially I have lot's of favorites this season; but I have taken technicality, ideas and freshness to have picked the 10 that I love best.
To start with:
Thom Browne
Yes, the looks were weird, unwearable and does not define what is beautiful at all but the execution and the cutting edge designs of his clothes here should earn him a credit to be a top womenswear designer as well. I love the stiffness and the silhouette combining them with his expert menswear tailoring. He certainly made the women's suit fresh and stronger.
Christopher Kane
The clothes looked basic but the addition of such new materials made it worked.Of the hundreds of designers had their clothes shown this month, his creations, simple, but its unique characteristics that did not appear to any other shows made it a stand out.
Yves Saint Laurent
What I like about Stefano Pilati's direction for the label is his ability to keep glamour at a point that it is not screaming loud.He always manages to bring something mysterious to his clothes that us, his audience would like to unpuzzle. There is balance in this collection: from the masculinity and the hardness of the suit and ended in the softness of the whites.I love that he keeps this level of sacredness to his clothes.
Louis Vuitton
Marc Jacobs have two hits this seasons: this collection for Louis Vuitton and his own line. I can imagine why I like this collection very much.Juxtapose this to Thom Browne's, there were similarities in some of the clothes especially how the shoulders were done here that somehow made the clothes as armors.And the lacey-leather dresses at the end were one of the best pieces I have ever seen so far. The clothes were luxurious as it were well thought.
Haider Ackermann
Mix Alber Elbaz, Rick Owens, Martin Margiela, John Galliano, Ann Demeulemeester together and you get Haider Ackermann. The sharpness of the cuts and the fluidity of the clothes are so beautiful that although the models were fully clothed, it was very sexy. The colors were very rich and I have never seen such combination before.
Balenciaga
This is a bit odd collection by Nicolas Ghesquiere for Balenciaga.It started with separates, to dresses, to dresses that looked like tunics over pants.And what I like about this collection is it wasn't at all sexy,nothing was revealed. It was like going to church.The flowery dresses, the color blocked tunic and pants combination,sweater and skirt: these I think will make women consider to look for in here wardrobe next season.
Valentino
Only Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli for Valentino have thought of what a woman really wants to wear, that, at the end of the day she just wants to wear something simple without her thinking she is too much a fashionista, that, it is very easy to be beautiful. Plus, I love the fact they mixed couture and pret-a-porter to produce such kind of creativity.
Alexander McQueen
This collection really makes you think "Is he really dead?". The clothes here by Sarah Burton still lives memories of McQueen. It was dark minus the darkness of what Alexander usually injects in his shows. You can really see how she absorbed everything from her master what a good teacher he must have been
Missoni
The label is into going crazy these past seasons. I have no idea how Missoni was transformed that all of the sudden clothes were weird. Was it the addition of Angela Missoni's daughters on the design team that made the clothes hipper and younger? She said she was inspired by her daughters clothes. The candy like color on every knit and even python was crazy enough.I don't know,I just like this collection- a lot.
Prada
She went to fly an airplane and became fish.What? The jumping of ideas has always been Miuccia's game and her fall collection isn't different.The strongest point in here was the scale dresses at the end, they're very beautiful.
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