When news early this year about John Galliano losing the top Dior job and his namesake line spread there was only one thing the fashionistas the world over could think of: Who will replace him? Not going to be an easy one. Names appeared, and Riccardo Tisci and Marc Jacobs were on the front line; later, new players such as Jason Wu, and Alexander Wang. And perhaps the biggest news in fashion this year is Raf Simons rumored appointment for the house.
There is no doubt Riccardo Tisci is THE man for the job. His collections for Givenchy-- his couture collections for Givenchy now set standards for what craftmanship defines. But problem no. 1: he now "owns" the label, much like Marc Jacobs for Louis Vuitton, that leaving a house you built with very shaky beginnings and later succeeded would be a crazy move; and starting all over again with the presss' watchful eye could mean pressure. And second, I don't think LVMH is going to make these 2 labels end up on loose soil as they have become its milking cows. Loosing one of them for either labels would result in a 2 new collections starting that will certainly end up in a comparison wall, that, it is much easier to focus this LVMH predicament to the house of Dior alone.
Of all houses, with its creative director leaving, only Dior failed to pass the torch correctly to the assistants. Gucci, YSL, Valentino, Maison Martin Margiela, Alexander McQueen, and now Balmain were able to. Bill Gayten, John's right arm and considered the interim designer for Dior could not present a collection worthy enough for such a prestigious brand. That said, Jason Wu and Alexander Wang's lack of experience and the fact they make very commercial collections in New York, a massive post like this one would drown both in John's shadows.
And now Raf Simons, the Belgian minimalist whose career started in menswear and later carried Jil Sander is the most unlikely person for the job. Famous for his impeccable tailoring, how would he trim layers and layers of chiffon gowns? How would he add drama to an A-line skirt, the t-shirt? How well could he clean and make the megabrand his own without living in Galliano's trails? There is no denying Raf is a pure genius, a designer overshadowed by his extremely overrated popular colleagues; and if he makes this right, and if that first collection fits,no doubt he will forever change this game.
